APEX CHIMNEY SWEEPS

Buying And Burning Logs

 

Buying Logs

When you purchase logs, generally they will be sold as either Hardwood or Softwood, seasoned or unseasoned. Below I will try to explain what is best and why.

For wood burners in particular, hardwood is without doubt the best type of log. It is much denser than softwood and it therefore burns for much longer. It comes from deciduous, broad leaved trees, unlike softwood which burns quickly (and therefore you need to re fuel more often) and comes from evergreen coniferous species such as pine and fir. Hardwood when first cut usually has a much lower moisture content to begin with and certainly contains less resin. I will talk more about moisture content later.

The main hard woods that are burnt are Oak, Ash, Beech, Birch, Cherry, Elm, Sycamore and Chestnut. Softwood species include, Fir, Pine and Cedar which are all evergreen trees. As the hard woods are denser (and burn longer) they weigh considerably more, but, take up a lot less space in the log store. So if buying logs by Volume i.e. by the cubic metre, then you would expect the softwood to cost less as it is an inferior quality wood for burning.

Likewise if you buy by Weight, say a tonne, then you will get less hard wood logs than you will softwood, but again the price for soft wood should be less. Softwood makes excellent kindling to help start your fire as it catches fir very easily and burns hot and bright.

Burning Logs

Whichever wood you decide to purchase, when you come to burn it needs to be relatively dry and seasoned, as any water left in the log when it is introduced into the fire will have to evaporate before that log will burn. This reduces the efficiency of the fire. The heat output generated by logs is measured as its Calorific Value (CV). A damp unseasoned log will give less than 50% of the energy content of a well seasoned dry log.

Remember, wood when first cut is at least 50% water, to get it down to into the best condition to burn means bringing that Moisture Content down to 20% or less.

This should be done by, first cutting the logs to size and then storing them id a dry, sunny position, off the ground and under cover. A purpose made wood store is ideal, these often have partially open sides and back to allow the air to flow through them but at the same time protecting the contents from the rain. If the logs can be stacked in such a way that the wind and air can circulate through them, so much the better.

Some species of wood will take longer than others to season and dry, hardwoods (because they are denser) will usually take longer than soft woods. Some hard woods such as Oak can take 2 years or more to season ready for burning, but many can be seasoned in a year or so if carried out correctly with the wood being cut and then stored at the correct time of the year.

 

If you burn wet unseasoned wood, not only will it result in poor efficiency from the appliance but it will produce tar and creosote which will coat the inside of the chimney flue. This tar will if it does not catch fire first, eventually block the chimney flue.

Should the flue catch fire the tar can burn at temperatures of over 1000 degrees Centigrade, causing massive damage to the chimney itself and often resulting in the house actually catching fire. Inefficient burning also increase levels of Carbon Monoxide (Co), this is an invisible gas which can have fatal consequences should it find its way into the property (see previous blog on Carbon Monoxide).

 There are many outlets producing kiln dried wood which is usually hard wood with of moisture content well below 20% available online who will deliver bulk bags to your door but expect to a premium for this wood.
 
You should never burn, wood if painted, varnished or treated in any other way as it produces toxic combustion gasses which are harmful to the environment, even plywood and MDF boarding produce dangerous chemicals and gasses when burnt, the substance when burnt also contaminate the ash produced from burning which may be inhaled when the ash is cleared from the appliance.
 

Moisture Meters

It’s a good idea to invest in a Moisture Meter, they measure the moisture contained within a log, as previously mentioned this moisture content should ideally be less than 20%. They work by pushing usually two sharp metal prongs into a piece of  wood and an electrical current is passed between the prongs and the resistance is measured and calibrated on a digital read out as a percentage of moisture content.
 
moisture meters
 
 
As a rule of thumb the outside surface of the logs is dryer than the middle section, as such it is good practice to split some logs in two and take a reading from the inner surface also to ensure that they are 20% or less all of the way though.
 
A thermometer which are either  positioned on the top of the stove or on the appliances flue pipe (according to their type) are a good idea too. This will inform you of the temperature at which the appliance is burning. There is an optimum burning range, generally between 240 – 480 degrees (for a flue pipe gauge) this ensures that you are getting maximum efficiency from the wood you are burning and that you are also burning the appliance as cleanly as it can be burnt producing the least smoke and soot  and also reducing the chances of creosote build up.
 
 
Assuming that you are burning dry seasoned wood, by keeping an eye on the temperature gauge it will help you use the appliance in the most efficient way, by letting you know that you either need to add more fuel or to increase or decrease the air input into the appliance to keep the temperature within the desired range. For instance, if the temperature falls and there is sufficient fuel remaining in the appliance, you will know that you have to increase the oxygen (air) flow into the appliance to make the fire burn hotter and brighter.
 
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